Part 1 Espolon Pepsi Puig Campana
An ascent of one of the classic ridge rock climbs on the Puig Campana on the Costa Blanca, Spain. The climbers are clients on a climbing course with Compass West international Rock Climbing school. Instructors and guides- Rowland Edwards and Mark Edwards. A ten pitch rock climbing which is in a fabulous position overlooking the south and west faces of the mountain.
part 2 Espolon Pepsi Puig Campana
The Raven & The Crow
The Birth and Death of a new system of climbing protection which used a simple piece of climbing gear, the climbing nut. Once you had climbed the route and removed the nuts all you were left with was a small hole in the rock. Although this worked perfectly and was completely safe when used as rock climbing protection. It would not be accepted by the local federation unless made by a recognised equipment manufacturer . It was eventually replaced by bolts . Although a number of manufacturers. and the UIAA, agreed that the system was superb none would take the manufacturing up as there would not be any profit in making them.
We do have one local crag where the are still used . 14 yrs after we first installed them. They still work as well as the first day they were placed. Ones close to the sea are also still functioning well.
After seeing this video should anyone wish to take the idea up please contact me. For areas which are having problems with bolting routes eg, National Parks etc, they would be perfect. I will help in anyway I can.
A new climbing protection system THE ENP. This video shows how we tested it and used on rock climbs. Although very safe and easy to use it never became part of the climbing scene in Spain. Not having been produced by a recognised equipment manufacturer the local federation ask for it not to be used on the local crags. Most of the routes which used the ENP were later retro bolted. Climbing with the ENP is very similar to trad climbing( using nuts and cams) . Although a number of manufactureres said it was superb they would not manufacturer it as there was little profit in the idea( sad).
One area still remains where they are used and have been regularly for the past 14yrs. Even on sea cliffs they survive!
For an example on how hard you can climb using this system watch part 2. The Raven and the Crow.
Rowland’s Magical Mystery Tour
Climbed solo by Rowland Edwards in 1986. A classic sea cliff climb. A great journey amongst fantastic rock architecture with exciting positions and exposure over the blue Mediterranean sea. The approach alone makes this climb worth the visit.
Traverse of the Castellets
A classic ridge traverse of the south summit of the Castellet ridge in Finestrat.
Ascent of a classic route at Guadalest on one of Compass Wests climbing courses
Cracks of Tranquility
Many climbers visiting the Costa Blanca come here just to sport climb. The area has a wealth of adventure routes, some of alpine dimensions. This is just one of those climbs- Cracks of Tranquility on Haunted Walls- Penya Roc. A three star route both for quality and its situation. This climb clearly demonstrates that adventure climbing in Spain is well worth the effort of bringing your free climbing gear along on your next visit.
This route was first climb by Rowland in 1997. Climbers – Mark Edwards , Ian Blake, Safe climbing
Noche de miedo
Mark Edwards climbing his own route ¨Noche de Miedo¨ (E5) on the sandstone sea cliffs near the tourist resort of Benidorm, on the Costa Blanca of Spain. This traditionally protected climb takes an overhanging wall on the 400m high Serra Gelada Natural Park. Film by director Rowland Edwards of Compass West International School of Rock Climbing who run specialist trad climbing courses within the area.
Compass West clients on a weeks climbing course climbing on The Citadel. Benidorm . Espania. Learning how to climb adventure rock climbs– safely
Touch of Glass E8 6c/7c – Adventure ( trad) climbing Costa Blanca Spain.
Mark Edwards trad climbing (first ascent) on the sea cliffs of Sierra Gelada – Costa Blanca. Spain. E8 6c (7c) The climbing on this wall is without doubt some of the best rock in this the area to climb on. There are three other routes of equal quality on this wall.