CLIMBING VIDEOS

CORNWALL

Gillian One of the great classic face climbs of Cornwall. Mark edwards soling this route on a typical training session

Yankee Doodle Watch climbers on Yankee Doodle  a once famous rock climb on Lands End. This famous crack climb fell down into the sea during a massive storm in the late 70s

An ascent of Terriers Tooth one of the  top classic routes on Chairladder (two parts)

Monster Munch First climb by Mark Edwards In 1993. This superb climb was unfortunately later destroyed by having the hangers cut through, making the climb impossible to climb. It has since been reinstated and should provide a fantastic climb for those that can climb this grade.

Marines Climbing A training film made in 1954 by the Royal marines climbing on Cornish sea cliffs. Although made so many years ago the principles for rock climbing is as good to-day as it was then.
The climbers were. Lead climber- 'Mac' McDermot,, second climber - Brian (Dolly) Grey - third climber-Jock (Bella) Stanger.
Notice that the rope is a hemp rope. No harnesses. No slings or karabinas and nailed boots. We were hard in those days!

Atlantic Ocean Wall One of the great rock climbs of the South West UK. This climb is situated on the sea cliffs of Lands End. Cornwall. First climbed on sight in 1981. Climbed over a number of days ,each time abseiling down the climb to the base of the wall ( and sometimes into the sea). This climb was done before we had cams! ( Friends). It wasn't abseil inspected or practiced. At that time it was something we just didn't do. The only rock climbs which were ever inspected from above where some on the Ormes in North Wales. This was because they needed cleaning prior to the ascent. We also didn't pre-place protection.
Three hard steel piton and a steel tub ( to belay from) were used on the first ascent . These pitons would rust out very quickly so were later replaced with stainless steel 6mm bolts( no hangers). We called them "Penny Bolts' the bolt went through the centre of a drilled hole in the penny. You then had to use a normal wire to hook over the bolt. These were placed where the pegs had been. Our intentions at the time was to keep it as adventurous as we could.

Later ( when we aquired large Cams) we did the whole route without the bolts ( one of the bolts having been removed by another climber attemping it ( they didn't get up the route but removed the bolt on their abseil retreat (after using one of the bolts to abseil from)!!

The steel tube and one penny bolt remained in the second belay for many years . Eventually the tube rusted away leaving the belay without any security.

Many years later two chemical bolts where placed in the belay by visiting climbers, thus making the climb possible again. Unfortunately none of this was ever recorded in the guide books to the area even though this information had been passed to the guide book editors.

I am just putting the record straight here. 29 yrs later!

SPAIN

Espolon Pepsi Puig Campana An ascent of one of the classic ridge rock climbs on the Puig Campana on the Costa Blanca, Spain. The climbers are clients on a climbing course with Compass West international Rock Climbing school. Instructors and guides- Rowland Edwards and Mark Edwards. A ten pitch rock climbing which is in a fabulous position overlooking the south and west faces of the mountain. (in two parts)

The Raven and the Crow The Birth and Death of a new system of climbing protection which used a simple piece of climbing gear, the climbing nut. Once you had climbed the route and removed the nuts all you were left with was a small hole in the rock. Although this worked perfectly and was completely safe when used as rock climbing protection. It would not be accepted by the local federation unless made by a recognised equipment manufacturer . It was eventually replaced by bolts . Although a number of manufacturers. and the UIAA, agreed that the system was superb none would take the manufacturing up as there would not be any profit in making them.

Rowlands Magical Mystery Tour Climbed solo by Rowland Edwards in 1986. A classic sea cliff climb. A great journey amongst fantastic rock architecture with exciting positions and exposure over the blue Mediterranean sea. The approach alone makes this climb worth the visit.

Traverse of the Castellets A classic ridge traverse of the south summit of the Castellet ridge in Finestrat.
An article can be found here. Read the full discription of the scramble

Esthers Chimney Ascent of a classic route at Guadalest on one of Compass Wests climbing courses

HISTORICAL AND OTHER VIDEOS

The Left Wall - Llanberis Pass. Filmed in 1964 A film made in 1964 of an ascent of Left Wall Llanberis Pass in Wales. Made by Bob Godfrey. and climbed by Rowland Edwards and Eric Jones. Rowland had to repeat the route several time as Bob had only one 16mm film camera. Eventually Rowland climbed it completely free but in those days if you practiced a route you didn't claim it.
In 1974. Rowland soloed the route and in 1976 did a new route to its right , Resurrection. E4 5c. which was also to become a classic rock climb.

This film was originally filmed on 16mm colour film and was of far better quality than this video. Bob Godfrey died in the early 70s and the film has since been lost. Bob lived in Colorado USA. but came from Yorkshire. If anyone knows anything of the where abouts of the original film please contact me. This peice of history should not be lost.

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