Watch climbers on Yankee Doodle a once famous rock climb on Lands End. This famous crack climb fell down into the sea during a massive storm in the late 70s.
An ascent of Terriers Tooth one of the top classic routes on Chairladder.
VIDEO IN TWO PARTS
PART ONE
PART TWO
MONSTER MUNCH
First climb by Mark Edwards In 1993. This superb climb was unfortunately later destroyed by having the hangers cut through, making the climb impossible to climb. It has since been reinstated and should provide a fantastic climb for those that can climb this grade. Enjoy
A training film made in 1954 by the Royal marines climbing on Cornish sea cliffs.
Although made so many years ago the principles for rock climbing is as good to-day as it was then.
The climbers were. Lead climber- 'Mac' McDermot,, second climber - Brian (Dolly) Grey - third climber-Jock (Bella) Stanger.
Notice that the rope is a hemp rope. No harnesses. No slings or karabinas and nailed boots. We were hard in those days!
Part 2
Altantic Ocean Wall E5 6a. Lands End
One of the great rock climbs of the South West UK. This climb is situated on the sea cliffs of Lands End Cornwall. First climbed on sight in 1981. Climbed over a number of days ,each time abseiling back down the wall to the base of the wall( and sometime into the sea). This climb was done before we had Cams!( Friends). It wasn't abseil inspected or practiced. At that time it was something we just didn't do. The only rock climbs which were ever inspected from above where some on the Ormes in North Wales. This was because they needed cleaning prior to the ascent. We also didn't pre-place protection.
Three hard steel piton and a steel tub ( to belay from) were used on the first ascent . These piton would have quickly rusted out so were later replaced with stainless steel 6mm bolts( no hangers). We called them "Penny Bolts' the bolt went through the centre of a drilled hole in the penny(rust proof ). You then had to use a normal wire to hook over the bolt. These were placed where the pegs had been. Our intentions at the time was to keep it as adventurous as we could.
Later( when we aquired large Cams) we did the whole route without the bolts ( one of the bolts having been removed by another climber attemping to climb the route ( they didn't get up but remove the bolt on their abseil retreat ( after using one of the bolts to abseil from)!!
The steel tube and one penny bolt remained in the second belay for many years . Eventually the tube rusted away leaving the belay without any security.
Many years later two chemical bolts where placed in the belay by visiting climbers. Thus making the climb possible again. Unfortunately none of this was ever recorded in the guides to the area even though this information had been passed to the guide book editors.
I am just putting the record straight here. 29yrs later Rowland Edwards
part 2
Gillian
One of the great classic face climbs of Cornwall. Mark edwards soling this route on a typical training session
