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CLIMBING WITH THE ENP
( Environmental Nut Placement ).

The idea of the ENP came about because of the desire to climb some of the long multi- pitch routes which the Costa Blanca is becoming famous for. New routes I climb usually follow natural lines were you could use the more traditional type of protection, e.g. Nuts and Camming devices. Like all limestone areas these natural lines peter out into blank protection less sections. Initially I used normal bolts to over come these sections, but as I climbed more routes I started to think that there should be a better way than having to leave behind bolts and hangers.

One route in particular 'Nuevo Edicions' on the Puig Campana typifies the type of route which would be possible by removing the need to use normal bolting methods. This magnificent route climbs the wall just left of "Via Julia", a fantastic naturally protected 5b HVS climb. I had recognised for many years the possibility of climbing the line of "Nuevo Edicions" but had resisted the temptation because of its proximity to "Via Julia". The route I wanted to climb would have required a number of bolts being placed very near to 'Via Julia'. Having experience a number of other classic climbs which had bolts places next to them, which had taken away much of the 'magic feelings' of the route, I was determined that I wouldn't be the one to spoil "Via Julia".

Once I had developed the idea of a removable bolt or nut then the whole concept of climbing these routes became a reality. "Nueva Creation" became a 175 mt. 6c+ climb which only needed 6 ENP's in the whole of the route. The maximum being three on the last pitch. Once having climbed with this method of protecting routes it soon became apparent that not only was it good to climb 'trad' routes but some sports climbing areas could also benefit from its use. Imagine Malham Cove without all the metal and tat around or Pen Trwyn without the bolts and rusting hangers. (ENP's are made from rust proof stainless steel). The ultimate test would be to climb some very hard routes which would have been bolted under normal circumstances.

In April 1998 and May 1999 Mark climbed two outstanding sports type routes on Placa Inmaculada (Echo Two) These two 8a routes are situated on the immaculate piece of rock you could ever wish to find. On this same piece of rock also go three other great routes and yet there is very little in the way of evidence that would indicate that climbers climb there at all. To see a climber on this wall making his / her way upwards with no visible means of protection is really very impressive and then to walk away from the climb looking back and seeing so little trace of your passage is surely what climbing is about.

The idea of using the ENP was that I could climb routes using as much natural protection as possible. In some instances I may have got it wrong, due no doubt to my desire to survive. If I did get it wrong, and we all make mistakes, anyone with more talent or with more neck, can attempt it in a better style in the future. This would mean not using the ENP placements and to do this all that is needed is for the leader not to have the size of nut for use in the actual ENP.

It has been mentioned by some climbers that this may restrict the amount of gear a leader can have on his rack( not being able to have a Rocks Three ). Because of the way in which the nut is used in the actual ENP (sideways - see ENP Placements) there are many other makes of nut which are the same size as the Rock 3 in their normal side but too large for the ENP when turned sideways on.

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